I read this article “50 + 1 yang Seru dan Asyik dari Jakarta” on Rider’s Digest Indonesia, June 2008 edition. Bought it for IDR 20.000 (about US$ 2,20) only. It’s less expensive that the US version (US$ 2,99) which I bought in Cairo – Egypt for EG£ 34 or about IDR 60.000!
It’s not the price that I’m going to talk about, but the city or even cities! There were cities where I’ve been to, and absolutely many more that I’m going to visit. Each of my trips had its own mission. This time, I’ve just spent two whole weeks in Cairo with the same mission: taking my chances in love. Mission accomplishment: failed. It’s just like my “30 days of love seeking in Europe”: failed. Believe me, I’d fly thousands miles just to see the man I fall in love with, to take my chances.
Anyway, I’m not going to write about my love life either. It’s the city. I’m going to talk about the city. About Jakarta, the city I’ve been living in for about a year now. I’ve never wanted to live here in Jakarta, to be honest. I had the option about 14 years ago, but instead I chose to live in Bandung, the capital of West Java during my senior high school years. Then probably would stay for the college and spend all my life there as well. I always thought that Jakarta was too scary for me. The people, the traffic and it would be a tough competition as well.
But then I had to return to my hometown on my last year of high school, and then got accepted at the Arts Institute here. I didn’t plan to be an artist either, not in my blood at all. I was planning to be a diplomat or psychologist, so I could travel and live overseas, or I could observe people to get to know myself better. But I turned out graduated as a film/television director and worked as a flight attendant. Conclusion: I got to travel overseas for free! It might be too complicated for you, but for me, I could see how everything in my life was actually connected to one another.
Again, the city. So, I’ve been living in Jakarta. I had no home, so I had to rent a tiny box of 10 square meters for about US$ 75 per month. A small bed, a cupboard, a fan, a shower, electricity and water were included in the bill. I lived on the top floor where I could have the sun and the fresh air, although I had to climb three floors up. I was sure that there were 18 bedrooms in this small house. Luckily, there were only four bedrooms including mine on my floor.
The house itself was situated in between two traditional markets. It was not a perfect place to live at all. I had to pass many people and say hello to them just to be polite. Also, I had to pass this huge and smelly dumpster on the way in and out.
I could hear the butcher cutting the meat with his giant knife at four in the morning, or when the person in charge at three different small mosques were screaming through the speakers, calling people to do the praying. Sometimes I could hear cats fighting or my neighbors fighting.
But the worst was I had to eavesdrop my landlord talking with his guests on the porch. He’s literary was a landlord. He had two wives and owned hectares of land, many houses and stores everywhere. He didn’t act or look rich at all but I believed he could earn at least US$ 10.000 per month from all those things he had. He said something interesting this afternoon when few guests came to see him. As always, he gave advices to them. He said to survive and be successful in Jakarta, you have to have, own a house in the city. Even it’s only a small one but you can always make some money out of it. I thought, hey that’s true! You could do everything you want with a house. People always need a place to live and you could rent the house to them. You could sell it and buy a new one. The landlord knew exactly what to do to get much more money.
So what’s left for a homeless person like me? I had no home or a house, literary. How was my chance of surviving in this wicked city? I used to be a member of the middle class and up, but now I’ve been loosing my grip and sliding slowly lower and lower. I didn’t know how long I could survive with not so much money I had left.
Yes, the city. The article. Written by Antono N. Purnomo and Anggara Lukita. 50+1 fun things to do in Jakarta. It surely gave me a fresh point of view of this crowded city, of those things I’ve always taken for granted.
The writers said that they had an American friend who loved New York very much and always wanted to visit the city again and again. He said that the city had its own uniqueness that always attracts people to return, although the people didn’t care about each other at all. “The thing” has made New York incomparable to any other cities in the world. They thought that Jakarta, the city with eight million inhabitants was the same too.
As the Jakartans, as the people of New York called themselves as the New Yorkers, this big kampong has completed our lives with fast work rhythm, the traffic jams and the floods. This polluted city was the place where most of Indonesians hang their dreams on. It’s the place where you could have it all or loose it all.
So, here what they said in the article and I took the liberty of translating it, my way:
1. Drive around Jakarta for IDR 5.500 only (US$ 0,60)
You had to pay IDR 5.500 for the inner city highway fee which goes around the city. Do it during holiday when there’s no traffic and don’t forget to fill up the gas tank of your car.
2. The music chamber at the park
Go to Taman Suropati in Menteng on Sundays, and you’ll find a group of classical music players have their gigs there.
3. Lung cleansing once a month
On the fourth Sunday each month, the avenue of Jendral Sudirman – M.H. Thamrin is closed for any motor vehicles. It’s the perfect time to “clean you lung” by biking, playing badminton or football!
4. Jakarta from high above
The National Monument (Monas) might be not the highest building in Jakarta, not anymore. But from 137 meters high, when there’s not too much pollution, not raining or when the elevators are not out of service, and if you have enough patient for queuing together with so many elementary students, you can view the city from high above.
5. Sitting Sogo by the street vendors
Negotiation and choosing the goods carefully are the must have skills to buy all the counterfeited designers’ goods from the street vendors at Tanah Abang – Central Jakarta. I think you must have strong legs and back too, to bend, since they sell the stuffs on the ground.
6. Stars on a day sky
Visit the Planetarium at Taman Ismail Marzuki. The guide said that the speed of the rotation of rickshaw’s wheels can’t be compared with the rotation of the earth!
7. A visit to the Taman Prasasti
The cemetery is in such a hidden location, in Tanah Abang . You would feel like being on the set of Bram Stoker’s Dracula. To call is as a park would be much more suitable since the cemetery is so beautiful with so many grave head stones and statues.
8. Sight for sore eyes at Sudirman-Thamrin
Question: Why there are always traffic jams during the rush hours on the avenue of Sudirman-Thamrin? Answer: Because the drivers like to drive their vehicles slowly so they can see those beautiful, young, fresh and stylish office girls going home from work!
9. Lamb satay a la Africa
My question was actually are there lambs in Africa? But the writers asked whether there is satay in Africa? I guess both of the answers would be No! The owner is an African man from Mali, located at Jalan KS Tubun I No. 6. Then my question again: where the hell is that?
10. Slalom test on the streets
Due to the bad condition of the street of Jakarta, our drivers are now as skillful as the slalom drivers are. All they need to do is to avoid the holes and the bus way separators!
11. Ride the old Bemos before they’re being demolished
I didn’t know that the tree wheeled Bemo was originally came from Japan. We imported them in the ’50-ies, when the Japanese government had to return all the things that they took away during the World War II. The only few Bemos left are going to be demolished very soon by the government, so hurry up, experience the ride!
12. Get surprised at the market
Located at Kalibata, on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays you can find almost anything at the market: hula-hoop, bunnies, wok, and magic medicines which don’t have any permits from the health department. So don’t bother to look for it on the box!
13. Round around on a special bus ride
The writers said that the “BUS WAY” should be short for “BUS istimeWA Ya” (Bus Istimewa means Special Bus). Why? Because the bus has its own special lane. But I think they are special because they use one lane for them only, why other millions of car have to share the few lanes left. So special that the lanes were build on the green lanes that destroyed so many trees. It is so cheap. For IDR 3.500 (about US$ 0,40) you can ride around the city. To avoid of feeling like the sardines in a can, take the ride on weekends.
14. The city of 1000 shopping malls
Indonesian is the country on thousands islands, and yes, Jakarta is the city of a thousand malls. New shopping malls every month. Although I think most of the people can’t buy anything there. Way too expensive!
15. Be stylish for (much) less
Second hand clothes can be found easily at Pasar Senen and Pasar Baru. Those who like to dress up with the retro styles from the ’70-ies and ’80-ies, those two markets are heaven! For me, it’s just another prove that Indonesia is a “second hand” country as well. We’ve been importing used and garbages. We even imported used condoms!
16. Watch indie movies at your private cinema
To watch your indie movies which won’t be screened at the cinemas, go to www.indiesmovie.com. They have a good selection of the genre and a mini cinema as well.
17. Demo-tourism
The representative house of DPR-MPR used to be the perfect place to have the demonstration at. But now people choose to go to the Bundaran HI. You have to make a booking to have your demonstration here. Which I think it’s really cool. I was hosting, MC-ing a demonstration there as well! After the demonstration is over, people can just hiding from the sun and chilling at one of the malls, drink the expensive coffee at Starbucks, eat the junk food at McDonald’s, or do anything that is contrary to what they were demonstrating for. I say, back to reality!
18. Buy cloths at Tanah Abang
Tanah Abang is the biggest market for textile in the South East Asia since 1735. Daily transaction could reach millions of US$.
19. The king of the streets got eco-fueled
In the ’70-ies and ’80-ies, the bus used to be the “King of the Streets”. Now the three-wheeled Bajaj got the crown. Although now the smaller version of Bemo and made in India, have been renewed in body and fuel type, but not the drivers. It’s still only God and the driver know where the Bajaj would go! The drivers then often got called the “Monkey of the Streets” by other (more civilized) drivers.
20. Get jazzed at Kuningan
Every Friday evening, 7 pm, the Friday Jazz Night is being held at Pasar Festival, Kuningan. It’s for free and often well-known Jazz musicians come on stage.
21. Watch old movies at Kineforum
Since March 2007 the Kineforum at Taman Ismail Marzuki 21 Cineplex has been organizing the “Menolak Hilang Ingatan” screening program to preserve the old Indonesian movies. Go to www.dkj.or.id for schedule.
22. Live the old days of Jakarta at Kampung Betawi Setu Babakan
Learn the culture and culinary of the native people of Jakarta at Srengseng Sawah, Jagakarsa, South Jakarta.
23. Fresh from the sea: seafood at Muara Karang
Eat cheap grilled fresh seafood for less then US$ 1 per portion! Rice and salads are also included.
24. Jakmania Maniacs
Jakarta has its own hooligans! Watch out for those in bright orange t-shirts.
25. Haunted Casablanca tunnel
Located under the HR Rasuna said street, this tunnel is famous for being haunted by a man who hung himself with an advertisement banner!
26. Meet the headless priest at Jeruk Purut cemetery
If you are alone or the three of you are brave enough to come to the cemetery on Friday evening, the headless priest will be so happy to welcome you!
27. Kinky legless nurse at the Cipto Mangunkusumo hospital
Need some clues to put on your gambling bet, come to this spooky hospital! The buildings are already scary enough, but maybe the beautiful legless nurse could be your lucky star!
28. World class events
You can find all the world-class events in the city! The only travel warning is that Indonesian is dangerously beautiful!
29. Clock show at Plaza Senayan
At exactly 12 noon, watch the dolls in the clock playing the music instruments.
30. Kebuli food festival at Condet
Many of the Arabs decedents now live in Condet, East Jakarta. There you can have the Arabic culinary feast of the kebuli rice, biryani, harisa, jala bread and lamb curry.
31. Flower market at Rawa Belong
You need to buy some fresh market in the middle of the night? Go to Rawa Belong, it’s a 24-hour market.
32. Water way, my way
Although the program ran by the government to use the rivers as a mean of transportation didn’t work because the rivers are way too polluted, but the small rafts run by a person or a group are still exist. With US$ 0,10 you can save your precious time by crossing the river over on a raft!
33. Blast from the past: the Satria Mandala
At least you still can see how the Indonesian army used to be in their glorious days at the museum.
34. Fritters a la Betawi
It’s not the fritter like you would thought it was. It’s actually a kind of curry made from beef and cow’s ingestions. Served with steamed rice wrapped in coconut leaves. They called it fritter because they made the curry in a frying pan. Go to Rawa belong to eat it.
35. Where to find your stolen shoes or car audio system: Taman Puring
The market had been burned down few times, so now it’s much more modern and cleaner. Although they still sell some stolen stuffs or those which were being sold by the owners, but there also sell brand new shoes now.
36. Around Indonesia in one day!
Yes you can! Visit the traditional houses of all provinces in Indonesia at Taman Mini Indonesia Indah. But I must tell you all the houses are relatively brand new but built look like the original ones.
37. Wooden trucks at Kalibata
Getting bored with your die cast toy cars? Find handmade and customized wooden truck, bajaj, bemo or any other bus types at Kalibata – South Jakarta.
38. Have fun at Dufan
A good place to have fun in the city. Get ready for the long queues.
39. Customize you jeans!
Go to those tailors specialized in customizing your pair of jeans. They are called “Permak Lepis”. The work “permak” is originally from a Dutch word “vermak” and “lepis” is actually “Levi’s”. Got it?
40. Cakes! At Senen and Blok M
At this early morning market, you can find any kind of cakes you want. From the cheapest to the most expensive ones, it depends on how good your cakes should taste like.
41. The dancing fountain
It’s called the “Air Mancur Pesona Monas” located at the west park of the National Monument. Come on Saturday and Sunday at 7 pm to watch the dancing fountain.
42. The fountain at Grand Indonesia
On Monday to Thursday and Sunday at 11.00-23.00, also on Friday and Saturday up to midnight, the fountain is being switched on. Unless there is a demonstration, I guess.
43. Cheap toys at Asemka – North Jakarta
Negotiate for the best price for the made in China cheap toys!
44. Old stuff at Jalan Surabaya
Those who love antiques, come to this street. But remember, it’s “antiques made daily”.
45. Visit the presidential palace
Since early May 2008, the presidential palace is open for public. It’s called the “Palace for the People” program.
46. Celebrate the Independence Day with foreigners at Jalan Jaksa
Do you want to see the backpacker foreigners do the stupid things? Come to Jalan Jaksa on 17th August.
47. The Jakarta Fair
The fair is held to celebrate the anniversary of Jakarta. Keep your belongings safely with you at all time! Beware of the pickpockets!
48. A scoop from the colonial days
Go to the Es Krim Ragusa, established in 1932, for an original taste of the Italian ice cream. The people there, are as old as the building is.
49. Island in the sun
Go to one of the island on the Thousands Island Archipelago in the north of Jakarta. It’s relatively a cheap place to get away from the polluted city.
50. (Used) book fair!
Yes, used cheap books at Pasar Senen! Remember to negotiate the price too.
+1 Jakarta, the city of heavy traffic jams!
Well, as Jakarta is indeed famous for its heavy traffic, (and one of the most polluted cities in the world as well), instead of being grumpy during the rush hours, then it’s always a good thing to do to spend the endless traffic jams by listening to the music on MP3 player, watch films on DVD portable, playing games on portable game console, or doing some knitting. Don’t you agree?
I’m sure there are more fun things to do in this city. I’ve done most of the things they said in the article. I’m part of the city now, although it’s not by choice. But I hope I can be able to survive here.
I wonder whether the song would goes the same for Jakarta: “If I can make it there, I’ll make it everywhere. New York. New York!” Or would it be just like a traditional song from Manado: “No one asked you to come to Jakarta. Now you have to pay the price!”
I don’t know. But all I know is that “Ini Jakarta, Bung!“ (This is Jakarta, Man!). Do whatever you need to do to survive.
