Is It Really Happening?

I ate too much! Nothing felt right. Too much of everything is not good, they say.

I had a portion of chicken satay with the peanut sauce. Delicious! I should have listened to myself, I bought enough fritters, those should be enough for my dinner. But still I bought the satay and the extra crackers. So there I was feeling uncomfortable for having too much food in my stomach.

Chicken satay that we have here is the best! I’ve tried some different style of it, in few countries, but they didn’t taste the same at all. The secret is in the peanut sauce. You can have the smoothest sauce but expensive at the Satay House Senayan. Or just the regular cheap ones at the food stalls on the street. If there is chicken satay, then you will find that the lamb satay is also available. For the lamb ones, mostly they are served with the Soya sauce only. Oh, by the way, I don’t eat the lamb ones. I don’t eat red meat.

What do I like from the chicken satay? I like the smell of the fume produced when they grill them on charcoals. The peanut sauce and all the things in it; salt, sugar and sweet Soya sauce, make the satay smell so nice. It’s much batter than the cigarette smoke and the dark one from the cars passing by, I promise! Although some people say that the fume also contributes to the global warming! Oh, come on! It’s nothing compared to the everything else! They also said that it causes cancer. Compared to smoking?! I’ve never heard that people could actually died because they inhale too much fume from the satay, but I don’t thing that people would be that stupid to kill themselves by eating the bamboo skewers either!

Anyway, most of the time I buy the satay from the street vendors. There is one quite close from my tiny box. It cost about US$ 1 per portion; 10 skewers of chicken satay and 2 rolls of steamed rice wrapped in banana leaves. A tiny bag of crackers made from the squashed fried melinjo seeds, is only about US$ 0,20. Since the government, just recently have decided to make the price of the gasoline 20% higher, so I thought the price of the satay would be a little bit expensive. I was hoping that it might increase at least US$ 0,10 per portion. But it didn’t! I still paid the same price as before.

Waiting for my satay, there were two girls and a man on the bench next to me. One girl was younger than the other, but both of them were wearing tight t-shirts and jeans. The man with a quite long hair was smoking. I hate that! If the wind didn’t blow the smoke to my direction, that would be okay, but it did. So I tried to avoid the smoke as much as I could. I wonder if the law of prohibiting people from smoking in public places in Jakarta is still valid?

Like it or not, I was eavesdropping to the conversation. Well, they were half screaming anyway, in a weird Jakarta accent! They’ve tried to make themselves sound cool. I believed the girls were trying to impress the man, but I was also sure that they’ve known for quite a while. In one of the phone conversation with another friend, the man said that he didn’t have much money. If he did, he would take the girls to the Iguana. I knew what Iguana is, I sometimes passed it on my way to the gym. It’s a pub at a low class hotel, which most of the times has Dangdut shows. I believed most the singers were newcomers to the business.

Then a phone was ringing. The older said to the man, that it must have been a call from his friend. Laughing, the man said it’s not his phone ringing, but it’s hers. Then both of the girls stepped away from the man to take the call. Still laughing, then the man said to us that those girlfriends he had were both so dumb! The satay sellers were laughing, one of them even tried to see how my reaction was to the joke. I didn’t react at all. I felt so insulted by the cheap joke the man made. So I gave them the angry face instead.

If they were dumb, so who’s fault would it be? Why didn’t the man educate them? I didn’t think that he would. He likes having those women as girlfriends so he could fool and use them all the time! And why the women want to have him for? A man that could not give respects at all! They were still there when I went home.

Then I ate my dinner. As I’ve mentioned, it’s way too much for me, but I had to eat them all. So I mixed them together; the fritters and the satay. My dinner didn’t taste that delicious anymore. Too many pieces of fritters; spring rolls, mixed veggies and the sticky sago. I bought them US$ 0,50 from a street vendor in front of the arts center park.

I thought there wouldn’t be anymore street vendors there, not last week. There were some municipal securities guarding the park. So there should be someone important from the government visiting, maybe to one of the arts events there. The park was clean, people could just sit there on the terrace with a view directly to the street, without any stalls blocking.

It was like that at least 10 years ago, until we had the economy crises. The prices went higher and higher, so many factories had gone into bankruptcy, people lost their jobs, while the rich people could only get much more richer. So in early 1998, students were marching on the streets, protesting to the government and demanding the president to resign. It was during the Suharto’s time.

I also marched with my fellow students from the Arts Institute. But we did it differently, by performing arts. I listened to the orations those student leaders gave, under the sun. We were wearing the Institute’s jacket so we would know if there were some strangers or provocateurs getting involved and trying to turn things into a bad situation. I didn’t really agree to what we did, but as a freshman, it was so fun to do it. And after marched, we went somewhere nice; to the parks!

Then things got worse. The police and military started to fire, there were even some hit men hired to shoot on people. In mid May 1998, some students got shot and things became out of control. A huge riot!

I and my boyfriend back then were driving near the university just a day before the shooting. It was so tense, but nothing happened. So I still went to the Institute the next day. The radio was on all day, all of us were so sensitive to the newest updates.

Then suddenly we heard some shootings, they should be quite near from the Institute. They said that an electronic market had just got burned and people were looting stores and houses. We could see big dark smoke rising from where we were standing. The teachers warned us not to go anywhere because it was so dangerous outside the Arts Institute. Somehow, we were protected and the Institute was in a way a sanctuary.

Everything got worst and worst. Many places were burned down, the looting, women got raped and people were trapped in burning buildings. It was not only in Jakarta, other part of Indonesia were in riots as well.

So we all stayed overnight at the Institute, trapped. I believed we were sleeping in classes. My boyfriend was there with me, and then he said that his father’s office was also got looted and burned. While I heard from home that the same things were also happening there. Even my uncle’s car was burned down.

The next day, all of us went home after hearing from the radio that the situation was under control. I asked my boyfriend to take me home, but he refused because he had his own family to worry about. I agreed, but then I guessed that he wouldn’t sacrifice anything for me either. But I had some friends who lived in the same town with me, so I went home with two boys.

It was a long was home. Not too many buses operating, but there wasn’t too many passengers either. We had to wait hours until we found one. But it didn’t go to the regular route since the highways were blocked.

Jakarta was a dead city. Broken windows, burning cars and buildings, almost no one we saw. The streets were blocked, signs saying “We are Muslim, please don’t burn!” were hanging on many doors. When we were passing the university where the shootings took place, we saw the army push some people onto a truck. Maybe they were caught red-handed, looting the stores.

More burning buildings and cars along the way. Trees, street lamps and signs were cut down. Military tanks were patrolling. It was so sad, but also such an amazing thing to witness to. Too many casualties and too much price to pay. Everything was just disappeared in a split second.

Then the student movement was a success, we took over the parliament house. The president agreed to resign. The vice president, B.J. Habibie took his vows as the new president. New government, they called themselves as the Reformation Cabinet.

After the reformation, everybody thought that they had the rights to do anything they like. No rules and laws could stop them doing it. And that’s how there were so many street vendors occupying the terrace of the Arts Center Park.

I’ve never been in the park lately, although I pass it often. I didn’t have anything to do anymore there, and the arts events showing, were not too interesting to me. I did want to see some films at the free cinema, the Kineforum, but instead I went to the regular one on Monday.

My good friend and colleague, Putri & I went directly from the office, walking. It’s just 4 or 5 blocks away to the cinema, about 20 minutes. It was a nice walk; it was in a cloudy afternoon under the trees shade along the way. We were passing those big and expensive houses.

We went to see the Happening, directed by M. Night Shyamalan, which then I noticed that one way or another he always appears in his own films. A good thriller, I closed my eyes often when it was showing all the suicide scenes. But I believed there were few scenes which didn’t make sense. For instance, when Julian (John Leguizamo) and this family in a car, crash themselves to a big tree, because they are all infected. The front part of the car is damaged, of course, the driver might be killed. While Julian himself walks out of the car, confused and then decides to cut himself with a piece of broken glass. But what about the other passengers on the back seat? The crash was not that hard, there should be a big chance that they actually would survive. Julian did, without any bruises at all.

But Mark Wahlberg is a hunk, that’s what my other colleague would say. Hey, I want to have him as my high school teacher too! The first time I had a crush with my teacher, when I was in the elementary school. Then I had some during my time at the Arts Institute.

Then another colleague said that he felt sad and lonely after seeing the movie. I understood what he meant, because I felt the same way too. How I wish that I have someone to love me that much, just like the characters of Mark Wahlberg and his wife in the movie. I’m longing for a man to love me as much as I love him.

But my heart got broken again today. But in a way, I was glad it’s over. I didn’t have to keep on guessing why he’s making distance between us. It’s much clearer to me why he didn’t reply to any of my messages. When he did, it’s just a very short reply; emoticons. But it was a 180 degrees of difference when it’s all started.

I cried a little bit this afternoon, questioning so many things. Why?

But then my dear friend Klaus reminded me that I shouldn’t spend my time running after men! He’s actually right. Why should I spend my precious time thinking about him, the one who didn’t want me? As Lars has always said; I deserve someone better!

So I went to the Pilates class with a broken heart, still. But I knew I would get over it since it’s not going to be an easy Pilates, especially if I had to be the assistant coach again that afternoon. But I didn’t, the class was not full at all. Then the coach said that next Tuesday would be his last time there at the gym. He gave his resignation already, and got offered to a higher position as a manager at a different gym. I said that he couldn’t leave, because I wouldn’t take over the class for him! I was joking of course, I was happy for him, that he had decided to move on, to a better position. Then after rowing, the sauna and being online, I walked home.

I felt all right. I’ve decided that he wouldn’t take me down. He’s just another thing that I had to erase from my mind. Just like that. Hope I wouldn’t have to cry over him anymore. But still, I’ve just got another crack in heart. I’d get over him someday, I’ve never loved him anyway. And when he’s gone, my whole world wouldn’t fall apart. I swore, crossed my broken heart.

Koffie

Sitting there alone in the crowd, killing time on Friday evening. People spent the weekends with their friends or the loved ones, not being alone like me. I didn’t want to go home right away, and I didn’t have the mood to do some cardio at the gym either, but I did the yoga and sauna.

We did some new yoga moves that afternoon. I was sweating a lot in the cold air-conditioned room. But I felt much stronger on the muscles, although I often forgot to breathe. I had to switch the sauna on myself and waited until it reaches 81 degrees. I didn’t know why, but I felt sad and lonely. I sent Klaus a message about it. He replied that no time for sadness at the gym! Build up your body and smile! Kisses and more kisses! That was so sweet of him and he always found a way to make me smile again.

I felt a bit better after reading his message, but something else made me laugh. When I was drying my hair, this woman kept staring at me and then asked:

“Are you a police officer, Miss?”

I was surprised by her question. I replied in laughter. But she didn’t believe me at all.

“What? A police officer? No, I’m not!”

“Are you sure?” she asked again.

“Of course I am!” I said.

That was actually the second time that someone asked me the same question. The first one was because I was wearing those leather boots, which look like those female police officers wear, but I had a long hair back then. But that afternoon, I didn’t know what have made the woman thinks that I was an officer. I had a short hair, yes, but I was only wearing jeans and the Barong t-shirt. Was it my posture? But I’ve been always like that, although doing pilates and yoga have made it much better.

After the gym, actually I was planning to watch a movie at the free cinema, the Kineforum, but I couldn’t make it on time. So I was thinking, maybe I should have some dinner at the Vietnamese restaurant, the Vietopia, which was just opposite the gym. The king prawn with chili and lemon grass was my favorite. I’ve just realized that I’ve had many dinners with my foreign friends and guests there. I took my Acqua di Gio man to have a dinner there as well. Then he said that I had a delicate way of eating.

But instead, I went to this café, a Dutch style café. The café itself was quite new, but the building should be at least from the ’50-ies. I could have chosen to go to the other café, the one with a French name, the Café au Lait, for the wireless internet but I wasn’t sure that it has some cheesecakes. So I chose to come to this one, the Bakoel Koffie. It’s crowed and I wasn’t sure about the wireless internet, but it had some selections of cakes. Cheesecakes were definitely on the menus.

Actually, if it’s only for the free wireless internet, I could always use one at the office. I had to work over the weekend anyway. But when I was passing this café, when I was about to make the decision, I saw a man sitting next to the window with his computer on. I didn’t notice him at first, but there was a kid watching him from outside with his nose on the window. The man was of course felt annoyed. That’s how I noticed him, it’s a white man with curly hair. Cute, maybe, but he’s not my type.

So there was, the cheesecake. Since they didn’t have the chocolate cheesecake anymore, I chose a slice of the blueberry cheesecake and the iced koffie mocha to drink. I could have chosen the table next to the cashier, but then my heart kept saying that I had to take my chances with that man. He’s using his computer, and asking him about it would be a good pick up line!

There was an empty table across his, but there was also a backpack on one of the chairs. I hoped that it was not belonged to those Chinese men sitting in the middle of the room. But it could also be my first chance to start a conversation with him.

“Excuse me, is the table taken?” I asked him.

“No, please” he said.

“Is that your bag?” I asked again.

“Yes, but you can take the table. Do you want me to get the bag?”

Then I said “No, it’s alright. I’m only going to use this side of the table. Thanks!”

Nervously, I turned my computer on and hoped that the connection would work. They said that we didn’t need any passwords to be connected. But of course it didn’t work, just like most of the free wireless internet connection at many cafes. If it did, then it would be a bad one. I tried so many times to be connected to the link, also tried to the one from the gym. But none worked. So I asked that man again.

“Can you get connected to the internet?” I asked.

“No, not so good actually” he replied.

Then I could tell that English was not his mother tongue. He was speaking in a weird accent.

“But we don’t need any passwords, do we?” I asked again.

“No, no. It’s just a bad link” he said.

Then came my order; the cheesecake and the drink. The man looked at my order; he might think those things that I’ve ordered were not that healthy at all. Well, I didn’t know what he was eating, but I noticed that he was drinking some iced lemon tea.

I loved cheesecake! I remembered my time in Cairo, sitting at cafés with my Muse, Stefan. The best and famous cheesecakes in Cairo would be at the Marriott Hotel. But we also had some at the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf in Zamalek, with a direct view to the Nile and the free wireless internet connection. I always had my green tea frappucino, he had his coffee while working or reading, and we shared the cheesecake. But they always played the same songs from Cat Steven, over and over again. My Muse said that playing the same songs repeatedly could actually be a smart way of kicking the customers out after spending too much time at the café!

So when I was back at the office again, one day, a colleague played some songs from Cat Steven. Then I wrote on my Facebook profile: “Listening to Cat Steven’s songs, the only thing missing is the cheesecake, Muse!” But that evening, there at the café, the only thing that missing was my Muse.

The iced koffie mocha drink had another story, and of course, that one came completely with some chantilly on top. What’s chantilly in English, anyway? I forgot. If I knew, could have ordered one without it, just to look like someone who cares a lot about her health. But I didn’t. But I knew exactly who would criticized me badly if he saw me having some chantilly in my drinks!

This man had always been so fussy about my eating habits. I said that I was only being choosy, but he disagreed. He believed that being choosy is different from being reluctant to try something new. Choosy means you are being selective and have only the best of each kind. So, he brought me to fancy restaurants every time we’re having a date and encouraged me to try new things, to taste all the best things in his life. I used to like white wine, but I’ve preferred to drink the red wine since, and it’s all because of him.

I remembered that he once got so angry with the waiter, no, actually with the manager of a fancy restaurant, the Cassis. I felt sorry for her who was just standing there, waiting, accepting and trying to persuade him to choose some other options. They had a wine list of course, like hundreds of them. But when he asked for a certain kind of wine, they didn’t have it. So he was so angry about it. Why the restaurant had to offer things that they didn’t have?

I didn’t try to calm him down at all, because I knew that getting angry was just in his nature. He gets his energy and creativity from being angry, and from the color of burgundy red that he loves. That’s why I liked him for; he’s the person I could always fight back. Just before I left to Cairo, after a dinner, I told him that I’ve missed having arguments with him! Well, I’ve missed looking into his beautiful eyes as well actually. Those curious and impatient eyes, but in the same time, I could also see the emptiness and the insecurity inside him.

The funny things was, when I was there again with Hoshi-san, to do a restaurant review for his newspaper, the Jakarta Shinbun, the restaurant still gave the same wine list, but this time, they wrote down the number of how many bottle left for each wine! Good! I believed they’ve learned from their mistakes and didn’t want anyone (like him) to make the same complaint!

Anyway, the cute man had just left, like that. He didn’t bother to say good bye at all. Damn! And I was still sitting there, writing this. Not too much left of the cheesecake and neither the drink. Spending time at cafes was not my thing at all actually. But it’s also nice to be there sometimes, when I had enough money or when I was just playing rich.

I always got a guilty feeling every time walking out from a café or somewhere pricey. Outside that fake world, the reality always managed to strike me hard. The unfortunate people lived outside that world. Sometimes some beggars came to the window asking for some money, or even watching us eating and spending money. The social gap was always too wide, much too deep.

There were also some kids who were watching my Muse and me when we’re having lunch at KFC in Cairo. (My Muse always said that buying me lunch or dinner at KFC was such a cheap date!) They then followed us, asking for some money. They were also some outside the KFC here in town, or maybe just some poor Bajaj drivers watching us from far away. That’s why I always tried to find a table away from the window, so I didn’t have to see them.

US$ 5 for the drink and the cake was quite expensive for me actually. Times 100 would be as much as my salary was per month. Times 14 would be the amount that I paid for my tiny box rent. So, this really was something luxurious for me, just like washing my dirty laundry in the washing machine!

But those people could afford to have some coffee there. And I could hear them talking in English. I believed some of us speak English better than they speak Indonesian. We mixed both languages in our daily conversation. As for me, it’s easier to write in English than in Indonesian, although my English was still far away from perfect. But the Indonesian language, the formal one….I didn’t know…but I’ve always felt too awkward to use it. Often that I couldn’t find the right word to use.

A couple sitting across my table, was getting dangerously closer to each other, at least the woman was. Touching him and flirting, she’s in love with him. While the man, I believed, was only trying to be nice to her.

The group of some Chinese men had left, but there was another group of few men and a woman sitting next to the wall back there. One of them was talking and flirting with a girl on the phone. Not flirting, but making fun of her, because he put the speaker on to let everyone hear the conversation. I just hoped that the girl was smart enough to know that the man was just using her.

Hate to leave, but I didn’t have too much power left on my computer. But it’s okay, leaving was much better than having to watch that couple having their date. So it’s just another weekend to spend alone.

50+1 Fun Things to Do In Jakarta

I read this article “50 + 1 yang Seru dan Asyik dari Jakarta” on Rider’s Digest Indonesia, June 2008 edition. Bought it for IDR 20.000 (about US$ 2,20) only. It’s less expensive that the US version (US$ 2,99) which I bought in Cairo – Egypt for EG£ 34 or about IDR 60.000!

It’s not the price that I’m going to talk about, but the city or even cities! There were cities where I’ve been to, and absolutely many more that I’m going to visit. Each of my trips had its own mission. This time, I’ve just spent two whole weeks in Cairo with the same mission: taking my chances in love. Mission accomplishment: failed. It’s just like my “30 days of love seeking in Europe”: failed. Believe me, I’d fly thousands miles just to see the man I fall in love with, to take my chances.

Anyway, I’m not going to write about my love life either. It’s the city. I’m going to talk about the city. About Jakarta, the city I’ve been living in for about a year now. I’ve never wanted to live here in Jakarta, to be honest. I had the option about 14 years ago, but instead I chose to live in Bandung, the capital of West Java during my senior high school years. Then probably would stay for the college and spend all my life there as well. I always thought that Jakarta was too scary for me. The people, the traffic and it would be a tough competition as well.

But then I had to return to my hometown on my last year of high school, and then got accepted at the Arts Institute here. I didn’t plan to be an artist either, not in my blood at all. I was planning to be a diplomat or psychologist, so I could travel and live overseas, or I could observe people to get to know myself better. But I turned out graduated as a film/television director and worked as a flight attendant. Conclusion: I got to travel overseas for free! It might be too complicated for you, but for me, I could see how everything in my life was actually connected to one another.

Again, the city. So, I’ve been living in Jakarta. I had no home, so I had to rent a tiny box of 10 square meters for about US$ 75 per month. A small bed, a cupboard, a fan, a shower, electricity and water were included in the bill. I lived on the top floor where I could have the sun and the fresh air, although I had to climb three floors up. I was sure that there were 18 bedrooms in this small house. Luckily, there were only four bedrooms including mine on my floor.

The house itself was situated in between two traditional markets. It was not a perfect place to live at all. I had to pass many people and say hello to them just to be polite. Also, I had to pass this huge and smelly dumpster on the way in and out.

I could hear the butcher cutting the meat with his giant knife at four in the morning, or when the person in charge at three different small mosques were screaming through the speakers, calling people to do the praying. Sometimes I could hear cats fighting or my neighbors fighting.

But the worst was I had to eavesdrop my landlord talking with his guests on the porch. He’s literary was a landlord. He had two wives and owned hectares of land, many houses and stores everywhere. He didn’t act or look rich at all but I believed he could earn at least US$ 10.000 per month from all those things he had. He said something interesting this afternoon when few guests came to see him. As always, he gave advices to them. He said to survive and be successful in Jakarta, you have to have, own a house in the city. Even it’s only a small one but you can always make some money out of it. I thought, hey that’s true! You could do everything you want with a house. People always need a place to live and you could rent the house to them. You could sell it and buy a new one. The landlord knew exactly what to do to get much more money.

So what’s left for a homeless person like me? I had no home or a house, literary. How was my chance of surviving in this wicked city? I used to be a member of the middle class and up, but now I’ve been loosing my grip and sliding slowly lower and lower. I didn’t know how long I could survive with not so much money I had left.

Yes, the city. The article. Written by Antono N. Purnomo and Anggara Lukita. 50+1 fun things to do in Jakarta. It surely gave me a fresh point of view of this crowded city, of those things I’ve always taken for granted.

The writers said that they had an American friend who loved New York very much and always wanted to visit the city again and again. He said that the city had its own uniqueness that always attracts people to return, although the people didn’t care about each other at all. “The thing” has made New York incomparable to any other cities in the world. They thought that Jakarta, the city with eight million inhabitants was the same too.

As the Jakartans, as the people of New York called themselves as the New Yorkers, this big kampong has completed our lives with fast work rhythm, the traffic jams and the floods. This polluted city was the place where most of Indonesians hang their dreams on. It’s the place where you could have it all or loose it all.

So, here what they said in the article and I took the liberty of translating it, my way:

1. Drive around Jakarta for IDR 5.500 only (US$ 0,60)

You had to pay IDR 5.500 for the inner city highway fee which goes around the city. Do it during holiday when there’s no traffic and don’t forget to fill up the gas tank of your car.

2. The music chamber at the park

Go to Taman Suropati in Menteng on Sundays, and you’ll find a group of classical music players have their gigs there.

3. Lung cleansing once a month

On the fourth Sunday each month, the avenue of Jendral Sudirman – M.H. Thamrin is closed for any motor vehicles. It’s the perfect time to “clean you lung” by biking, playing badminton or football!

4. Jakarta from high above

The National Monument (Monas) might be not the highest building in Jakarta, not anymore. But from 137 meters high, when there’s not too much pollution, not raining or when the elevators are not out of service, and if you have enough patient for queuing together with so many elementary students, you can view the city from high above.

5. Sitting Sogo by the street vendors

Negotiation and choosing the goods carefully are the must have skills to buy all the counterfeited designers’ goods from the street vendors at Tanah Abang – Central Jakarta. I think you must have strong legs and back too, to bend, since they sell the stuffs on the ground.

6. Stars on a day sky

Visit the Planetarium at Taman Ismail Marzuki. The guide said that the speed of the rotation of rickshaw’s wheels can’t be compared with the rotation of the earth!

7. A visit to the Taman Prasasti

The cemetery is in such a hidden location, in Tanah Abang . You would feel like being on the set of Bram Stoker’s Dracula. To call is as a park would be much more suitable since the cemetery is so beautiful with so many grave head stones and statues.

8. Sight for sore eyes at Sudirman-Thamrin

Question: Why there are always traffic jams during the rush hours on the avenue of Sudirman-Thamrin? Answer: Because the drivers like to drive their vehicles slowly so they can see those beautiful, young, fresh and stylish office girls going home from work!

9. Lamb satay a la Africa

My question was actually are there lambs in Africa? But the writers asked whether there is satay in Africa? I guess both of the answers would be No! The owner is an African man from Mali, located at Jalan KS Tubun I No. 6. Then my question again: where the hell is that?

10. Slalom test on the streets

Due to the bad condition of the street of Jakarta, our drivers are now as skillful as the slalom drivers are. All they need to do is to avoid the holes and the bus way separators!

11. Ride the old Bemos before they’re being demolished

I didn’t know that the tree wheeled Bemo was originally came from Japan. We imported them in the ’50-ies, when the Japanese government had to return all the things that they took away during the World War II. The only few Bemos left are going to be demolished very soon by the government, so hurry up, experience the ride!

12. Get surprised at the market

Located at Kalibata, on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays you can find almost anything at the market: hula-hoop, bunnies, wok, and magic medicines which don’t have any permits from the health department. So don’t bother to look for it on the box!

13. Round around on a special bus ride

The writers said that the “BUS WAY” should be short for “BUS istimeWA Ya” (Bus Istimewa means Special Bus). Why? Because the bus has its own special lane. But I think they are special because they use one lane for them only, why other millions of car have to share the few lanes left. So special that the lanes were build on the green lanes that destroyed so many trees. It is so cheap. For IDR 3.500 (about US$ 0,40) you can ride around the city. To avoid of feeling like the sardines in a can, take the ride on weekends.

14. The city of 1000 shopping malls

Indonesian is the country on thousands islands, and yes, Jakarta is the city of a thousand malls. New shopping malls every month. Although I think most of the people can’t buy anything there. Way too expensive!

15. Be stylish for (much) less

Second hand clothes can be found easily at Pasar Senen and Pasar Baru. Those who like to dress up with the retro styles from the ’70-ies and ’80-ies, those two markets are heaven! For me, it’s just another prove that Indonesia is a “second hand” country as well. We’ve been importing used and garbages. We even imported used condoms!

16. Watch indie movies at your private cinema

To watch your indie movies which won’t be screened at the cinemas, go to www.indiesmovie.com. They have a good selection of the genre and a mini cinema as well.

17. Demo-tourism

The representative house of DPR-MPR used to be the perfect place to have the demonstration at. But now people choose to go to the Bundaran HI. You have to make a booking to have your demonstration here. Which I think it’s really cool. I was hosting, MC-ing a demonstration there as well! After the demonstration is over, people can just hiding from the sun and chilling at one of the malls, drink the expensive coffee at Starbucks, eat the junk food at McDonald’s, or do anything that is contrary to what they were demonstrating for. I say, back to reality!

18. Buy cloths at Tanah Abang

Tanah Abang is the biggest market for textile in the South East Asia since 1735. Daily transaction could reach millions of US$.

19. The king of the streets got eco-fueled

In the ’70-ies and ’80-ies, the bus used to be the “King of the Streets”. Now the three-wheeled Bajaj got the crown. Although now the smaller version of Bemo and made in India, have been renewed in body and fuel type, but not the drivers. It’s still only God and the driver know where the Bajaj would go! The drivers then often got called the “Monkey of the Streets” by other (more civilized) drivers.

20. Get jazzed at Kuningan

Every Friday evening, 7 pm, the Friday Jazz Night is being held at Pasar Festival, Kuningan. It’s for free and often well-known Jazz musicians come on stage.

21. Watch old movies at Kineforum

Since March 2007 the Kineforum at Taman Ismail Marzuki 21 Cineplex has been organizing the “Menolak Hilang Ingatan” screening program to preserve the old Indonesian movies. Go to www.dkj.or.id for schedule.

22. Live the old days of Jakarta at Kampung Betawi Setu Babakan

Learn the culture and culinary of the native people of Jakarta at Srengseng Sawah, Jagakarsa, South Jakarta.

23. Fresh from the sea: seafood at Muara Karang

Eat cheap grilled fresh seafood for less then US$ 1 per portion! Rice and salads are also included.

24. Jakmania Maniacs

Jakarta has its own hooligans! Watch out for those in bright orange t-shirts.

25. Haunted Casablanca tunnel

Located under the HR Rasuna said street, this tunnel is famous for being haunted by a man who hung himself with an advertisement banner!

26. Meet the headless priest at Jeruk Purut cemetery

If you are alone or the three of you are brave enough to come to the cemetery on Friday evening, the headless priest will be so happy to welcome you!

27. Kinky legless nurse at the Cipto Mangunkusumo hospital

Need some clues to put on your gambling bet, come to this spooky hospital! The buildings are already scary enough, but maybe the beautiful legless nurse could be your lucky star!

28. World class events

You can find all the world-class events in the city! The only travel warning is that Indonesian is dangerously beautiful!

29. Clock show at Plaza Senayan

At exactly 12 noon, watch the dolls in the clock playing the music instruments.

30. Kebuli food festival at Condet

Many of the Arabs decedents now live in Condet, East Jakarta. There you can have the Arabic culinary feast of the kebuli rice, biryani, harisa, jala bread and lamb curry.

31. Flower market at Rawa Belong

You need to buy some fresh market in the middle of the night? Go to Rawa Belong, it’s a 24-hour market.

32. Water way, my way

Although the program ran by the government to use the rivers as a mean of transportation didn’t work because the rivers are way too polluted, but the small rafts run by a person or a group are still exist. With US$ 0,10 you can save your precious time by crossing the river over on a raft!

33. Blast from the past: the Satria Mandala

At least you still can see how the Indonesian army used to be in their glorious days at the museum.

34. Fritters a la Betawi

It’s not the fritter like you would thought it was. It’s actually a kind of curry made from beef and cow’s ingestions. Served with steamed rice wrapped in coconut leaves. They called it fritter because they made the curry in a frying pan. Go to Rawa belong to eat it.

35. Where to find your stolen shoes or car audio system: Taman Puring

The market had been burned down few times, so now it’s much more modern and cleaner. Although they still sell some stolen stuffs or those which were being sold by the owners, but there also sell brand new shoes now.

36. Around Indonesia in one day!

Yes you can! Visit the traditional houses of all provinces in Indonesia at Taman Mini Indonesia Indah. But I must tell you all the houses are relatively brand new but built look like the original ones.

37. Wooden trucks at Kalibata

Getting bored with your die cast toy cars? Find handmade and customized wooden truck, bajaj, bemo or any other bus types at Kalibata – South Jakarta.

38. Have fun at Dufan

A good place to have fun in the city. Get ready for the long queues.

39. Customize you jeans!

Go to those tailors specialized in customizing your pair of jeans. They are called “Permak Lepis”. The work “permak” is originally from a Dutch word “vermak” and “lepis” is actually “Levi’s”. Got it?

40. Cakes! At Senen and Blok M

At this early morning market, you can find any kind of cakes you want. From the cheapest to the most expensive ones, it depends on how good your cakes should taste like.

41. The dancing fountain

It’s called the “Air Mancur Pesona Monas” located at the west park of the National Monument. Come on Saturday and Sunday at 7 pm to watch the dancing fountain.

42. The fountain at Grand Indonesia

On Monday to Thursday and Sunday at 11.00-23.00, also on Friday and Saturday up to midnight, the fountain is being switched on. Unless there is a demonstration, I guess.

43. Cheap toys at Asemka – North Jakarta

Negotiate for the best price for the made in China cheap toys!

44. Old stuff at Jalan Surabaya

Those who love antiques, come to this street. But remember, it’s “antiques made daily”.

45. Visit the presidential palace

Since early May 2008, the presidential palace is open for public. It’s called the “Palace for the People” program.

46. Celebrate the Independence Day with foreigners at Jalan Jaksa

Do you want to see the backpacker foreigners do the stupid things? Come to Jalan Jaksa on 17th August.

47. The Jakarta Fair

The fair is held to celebrate the anniversary of Jakarta. Keep your belongings safely with you at all time! Beware of the pickpockets!

48. A scoop from the colonial days

Go to the Es Krim Ragusa, established in 1932, for an original taste of the Italian ice cream. The people there, are as old as the building is.

49. Island in the sun

Go to one of the island on the Thousands Island Archipelago in the north of Jakarta. It’s relatively a cheap place to get away from the polluted city.

50. (Used) book fair!

Yes, used cheap books at Pasar Senen! Remember to negotiate the price too.

+1 Jakarta, the city of heavy traffic jams!

Well, as Jakarta is indeed famous for its heavy traffic, (and one of the most polluted cities in the world as well), instead of being grumpy during the rush hours, then it’s always a good thing to do to spend the endless traffic jams by listening to the music on MP3 player, watch films on DVD portable, playing games on portable game console, or doing some knitting. Don’t you agree?

I’m sure there are more fun things to do in this city. I’ve done most of the things they said in the article. I’m part of the city now, although it’s not by choice. But I hope I can be able to survive here.

I wonder whether the song would goes the same for Jakarta: “If I can make it there, I’ll make it everywhere. New York. New York!” Or would it be just like a traditional song from Manado: “No one asked you to come to Jakarta. Now you have to pay the price!”

I don’t know. But all I know is that “Ini Jakarta, Bung!“ (This is Jakarta, Man!). Do whatever you need to do to survive.

Feeling Sad in Abu Dhabi

So there I was again, at the small airport of Abu Dhabi. It was still more then 2 hours away to the departure. I was on my way home to a place I wouldn’t call as home.

Hate to leave Cairo, but I was sure that it was for the best. It had to be that way. It had to be ended.

I was in between again. Always in between. Always running away, hiding away and searching until I finally found my home. Too bad i was still being trapped in hopes and dreams. Worse, I felt jealousy.

Anyway, the airport was still a little weird to me. Too many Asian people working at a small airport in an Arab country. Maybe most of them were Indonesian, Filipinos, Thai. But at least they gave free wireless internet. It was not there when i was here two weeks ago.

This time I was alone. Didn’t even try to communicate with anyone at all. I had my computer with me, free internet connection and a power outlet. I felt just fine. No, i didn’t feel fine at all!

I still didn’t understand this whole thing at all. Why there were so many questions i couldn’t answer, or i couldn’t find the answers. How long should i keep on searching?

Should i take another big leap? Done it before, but i believed i would need much more courage if i had to do it again. But i didnt think that i would do that, not now.

All I knew that I wasn’t myself lately. I’ve been fooling myself. I’ve been trying to show people that i was a strong person. But i was not. I’ve lost my grip. Where should i lean on? Was i too independent or was i too dependent? But either way, i’ve never been good enough for anyone.

Hours away from a place i wouldn’t call home.

When could i finally find my home?